Dolomites in Winter: Weather, Skiing, Hiking, and more

Short answer: yes, winter in the Dolomites is TRULy worth it.

You get to enjoy so much:

• snowy mountains (generally, at least),
• emptier trails,
• Christmas markets (December),
• alpine spas (book a hotel with a spa!),
• skiing and snowboarding,
• and cute little decorated towns.

Winter can get a bit cold, obviously, and snowy. You also have some places you can’t visit easily, and some of the most popular hikes are inaccessible.

BUT you do get some absolutely special and unique landscapes to enjoy.

Best time to enjoy the Dolomites in winter

The winter season in the Dolomites generally lasts from the beginning of December until the end of March.

Sometimes, and some places, the season actually starts in November and lasts into April, so I’ll include those two as well. Although, November barely counts as winter at all, and by April you’re basically back to spring with leftover snow.

While the actual snow conditions vary from year to year, beginning of December to end of March is when the official skiing season lasts and the snow slopes (whether natural or artificial) is guaranteed on most of the slopes.

So, here are the general weather conditions, best things to do, and what you should be aware of for each winter month in the Dolomites.

Dolomites in November

November is the absolutely low season in the Dolomites.

The winter season generally hasn’t started yet, and the ski lifts and cable cars are generally not running – at least not until the very end of November.

There’s very little accommodation available, as most of it closes in November – preparing for the winter season, renovating, or taking a well-deserved time off after a busy summer.

There might or might not be natural snow in November, and most of the lifts and slopes will not be ready yet. If you’re looking to visit in November, look into getting help planning around weather and closures.

That being said, we actually once visited in late November… and while the overall options are rather limited, you’re likely to enjoy the (relatively few) available ones without the crowds.

We went on a short road trip during our visit, and we got to enjoy both very snowy conditions and some autumn sceneries. The mountain passes offered really breathtaking views – and having snowball fights in waist-deep snow after the warmth of Lake Garda earlier the same day was completely incredible.

Dolomites in December

December marks the actual beginning of the winter season in the Dolomites.

The slopes and ski lifts typically open in the first week of December – very rarely it happens at the end of November. It actually feels like everything is waking up – slowly, slowly, but it’s there.

It is still a relatively quiet time, though, so you might be able to enjoy the slopes without the usual February crowds, as well as benefit from more favorable accommodation prices.

It definitely seemed that they when e spent four nights in Ortisei with a friend, right in the very first days of the season. Like, literally, we arrived on the 2nd day of the season in Val Gardena, haha.

I was on a sightseeing/work trip with her, and one of the tasks I put for myself was researching the slopes. We actually had to wait to take pictures of skiers on some!

The Christmas markets were also just starting to go up, and many of the snowparks weren’t open yet, as it was simply too early. It’s a strange, in-between kind of magic in the Dolomites.

And it’s not even all of them – for example, Alta Badia barely had any snow (although some of the slopes were running already).

If you time it right, you can also catch different offers, such as the Dolomiti Superpremière, where staying 4 nights or more gets you one night and one skipass day at no extra cost. It’s something like a “stay 4 nights, pay for 3” deal, valid at participating hotels from the start of the season until December 19, 2026.

December is a magical time of charming Christmas markets selling handmade crafts and mouth-watering local delicacies. You’ll find them in many villages across the Dolomites, such Cortina d’Ampezzo, Ortisei or Dobbiaco, as well as in bigger towns and cities such as Bolzano or Bressanone.

And the Christmas time comes with different interesting activities – we caught the Krampus run in Ortisei. It was… wild, haha.

Dolomites in January

January is when the Christmas markets disappear and the Dolomites turn into a proper winter destination. The markets pack up around January 6, the day of Epiphany – or La Befana as it’s called in the Dolomites. It’s when the last gifts get delivered and the stalls come down for good.

After the festive season of Christmas and New Year is over, the beginning of January sees a drop in accommodation prices, before they start rising again towards the end of the month.

But the winter season is now fully running. There’s reliable natural snow, not just the fake stuff, because the temperatures are low enough. January is actually the coldest month of the year, which is great for snow conditions.

But you also need to keep in mind that the days are rather short – the sun sets around 5 pm on average (earlier at the start of the month, a bit later by the end). And that’s also roughly when the lifts close for the day, so don’t expect them to run late and plan your activities accordingly.

Luckily, January is one of the less crowded months of the winter season in the Dolomites, especially the middle of it. The exception is the end of December to the beginning of January, when the Christmas break hits most of Europe. And then, by the end of the month, winter breaks start in schools, which means half of Europe heads to the mountains for skiing.

It’s a great time to visit – the mountains have turned into a true winter wonderland, it’s not yet overly busy and the weather is (usually) more stable than in December. All the favorite winter activities are available, from skiing (downhill and cross-country) to sledding, to snowshoe trekking.

Dolomites in February

February is when the winter season is in full swing, so if skiing or snowboarding is your main reason for coming, this is a pretty straightforward month to choose.

It’s also usually one of the busiest times in the Dolomites, thanks to school holidays in Italy and across Europe. And, yep, the hotel prices will reflect this, too.

When we stayed at Alpenrose in February, I was surprised by how little natural snow there was around us. The ski slopes were open and snow-…ful, but the area around them showed large patches of grass – which wasn’t exactly what I’d pictured when I thought about a ski trip to the Dolomites.

Then, on the day we were leaving, about 70 cm of fresh snow came down.

Suddenly, everything looked like the winter postcard I’d been expecting (prettyyy!). The only tiny, minuscule little problem was that we now had to drive in it – and we couldn’t leave Italy because the roads were closed.

Bonus? A trip extended for a day!

So February can give you excellent winter conditions for hitting the slopes, but snowy scenery outside the ski areas isn’t guaranteed (although this does depend on the year). Daytime temperatures can also get above freezing, especially at lower elevations.

If you want the full winter experience and don’t mind higher prices and more people on the slopes, February is an amazing time to visit.

Dolomites in March

March is already the time when it’s starting to get decidedly un-wintery. The days are longer and warmer, and the lower altitudes are basically in spring.

We went in the very first days of March and stayed at Brunelle Seiser Alm Lodge in Saltria, deep on Alpe di Siusi, so – quite high, when it comes to altitude. But as you see in the picture above, even then, the grass was showing.

So, it’s really important to figure out where you stay if you want snow, and especially if you want to go skiing or snowboarding. There was barely any snow left in the lower areas around Siusi and Castelrotto, and there was basically no snow in Val Gardena itself.

The ski slopes were still open thanks to technical snow, but it definitely didn’t feel like the middle of winter anymore. And in the lower areas, some smaller slopes and ski lifts might close down towards the end of the month if there’s not enough natural snow.

We did get to fulfill some of our bucket-list items, though – Michal went winter hiking, and Emma and I did a bunch of skiing and snowboarding all around Alpe di Siusi – and even on one of Val Gardena’s Legendary 8! As a cherry on top, we found a hill that was good enough for tobogganing next to our hotel.

The days are getting longer and the usual daytime temperatures rise above 0 (32 Fahrenheit) – sometimes well above zero in the afternoon. That might mean moving to the slopes at higher elevations, especially in the afternoon – when I did the Alpe di Siusi Ronda, the slopes that were in the sun most of the day were really rough by the afternoon. And Michal also saw it on the more popular ones in Val Gardena – it was hard to call them proper “ski slopes” by that time.

The second half of the month might bring some spring promos, such as an extra day of accommodation and a day of skipass for free.

If you’re visiting the Dolomites for skiing in March, make sure to double and triple check where you’re going – higher elevations and north-facing slopes are your friends.

But the best thing about March is – the weather is just much nicer for being outside. You still have those huge, snowy Dolomites peaks around you, but you’re not necessarily dealing with proper winter temperatures all day. That makes March a really nice time for things like winter hiking and even paragliding, especially if skiing isn’t the whole point of your trip.

Dolomites in April

April is firmly a transition month in the Dolomites – occasionally, the ski season spills into the first days of April, but once it’s done, the off season starts. At lower elevations, spring has arrived, with green grass, wildflowers starting to bloom, and much less snow. Up high, though, you can still have a proper winter landscape.

The ski resorts close down, as do most of the hotels, in preparation for the summer ahead.

When we had our April weekend trip in the Dolomites, that’s exactly what was happening. “In-between” is the best description – the winter season was over, but the summer season was nowhere near starting.

Lake Braies was still snowy and partly frozen, Lake Misurina had plenty of snow around it, and the higher peaks looked completely wintry. Meanwhile, down in the valleys, it felt much more like spring.

You need to understand that visiting in April (or May, for that matter) means quite a few adjustments. On our trip, we planned to go to Tre Cime, but I hadn’t checked the Rifugio Auronzo toll road opening times – it was closed. So we ended up changing our plans and exploring other parts of the Eastern Dolomites instead.

And that’s the best way to plan an April (or off-season) trip – you can go on road trip to the mountain passes, explore the lower valleys (Val Fiscalina, Vallunga, even Val di Funes), go to the lakes, enjoy the towns… just don’t expect easy access to the iconic spots that are higher up.

Best things to do in Winter

The Dolomites are perfect for winter sports enthusiasts and just those who love different outdoor activities – and skiing isn’t the only thing you can do here. Even if you are skiing, you don’t have to spend every waking hour on the slopes.

We’ve done quite a bit of winter hiking, tobogganing, snowboarding and sightseeing over the years, so here are some of our favorite things to do when the mountains are covered in snow.

Alpine skiing and snowboarding

Alpine skiing and snowboarding is, quite obviously, the big one. The Dolomiti Superski cover 12 ski areas and more than 1,200 km of slopes, so whether you’re a complete beginner or someone who wants to spend a week chasing different runs, you have plenty to choose from.

We’ve skied and snowboarded in a few different parts of the Dolomites over the years, with Emma and I pretty much learning skiing and snowboarding from the basics to running harder reds (even one of the Val Gardena Legendary8!) on different slopes here.

There are plenty of interconnected slopes and ski routes to explore all over the Dolomites in different valleys, including the famous Sellaronda if you’re ready for a longer day on skis.

Cross-country skiing

If you don’t feel like flying down mountains, cross-country skiing is a really good way to enjoy the wintery Dolomites. You get to cover a lot of ground, and the trails take you through some amazingly beautiful landscapes.

The Dolomiti Nordicski network alone has more than 1,000 km of cross-country trails across different areas, so you have plenty of options.

That gives you quite a few ways to enjoy the UNESCO World Heritage Site area! There are trails in all of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites – enjoy the peaks of Tre Cime, the alpine meadows of Alpe di Siusi, and so much more, all from your skis.

Tobogganing

Tobogganing is easy to overlook when you’re planning a winter trip to the Dolomites. Don’t.

We did the Hubertus run in Carezza during our February ski trip, and we took the cable car up to the start. You rent the toboggan at the ski rental, then off you go, with views of Rosengarten/Catinaccio and Latemar around you.

One thing I didn’t love: parts of the run crossed or ran alongside the ski slope, so we’d occasionally meet skiers coming through. It felt a little chaotic, especially when you’re already flying downhill.

And go in the morning. By the afternoon, our run had become so bumpy that it wasn’t particularly fun anymore – Emma was barely holding on at times. We were there during an unusually warm February, though, so conditions will obviously vary.

Also, make sure you have a proper full-size toboggan rather than one of those little plastic things you basically sit on. And wear a helmet. You’re going fast, and this is not the place to discover that your childhood sledding instincts have betrayed you.

You’ll find toboggan runs in other parts of the Dolomites too, including Alpe di Siusi, Val Gardena and the Tre Cime area. After the Carezza one, I want to try so many more!

Snow shoeing

Snowshoeing in the Dolomites is one of the best ways to access places you can’t easily access on foot in winter. It’s something we’ve wanted to do for a long time, but it somehow has never worked out, haha.

Snowshoes – or ciaspole – allow you to go and explore more of the snowy landscapes. And there are many places in the Dolomites where you can snowshoe independently. You can find marked snowshoe routes around Lake Braies, Cinque Torri, Alpe di Siusi, for example. And of course, many more.

If you’d like some extra safety while going into terrain you wouldn’t be confident navigating by yourself, though, be sure to go on a guided tour with a local guide. The mountains are beautiful, for sure, but there is always the concern of avalanches, especially in higher elevations, and a local guide will know the conditions and terrain.

Winter hiking

Although it sounds quite weird to my ears, you can actually hike in the Dolomites in winter! Not just do snowshoe hikes, but, like, hiking-hiking.

Winter hiking is a great option if you want to enjoy the Dolomites in winter without skiing. There are plenty of groomed winter trails, and you don’t need to be an experienced hiker to enjoy them.

Michal went winter hiking during our March trip to Alpe di Siusi and loved it.

(The fact that Emma and I were skiing while he got to disappear off on his own winter adventures was an added bonus.)

He did the No. 9 trail around Saltria, hiked from Col Raiser toward Seceda (using the Fermeda chairlift to help with the elevation), and did plenty of other routes around the plateau.

His recommendation, though, is to bring hiking poles and microspikes. Although the trails are generally well kept, they can get slippery. You don’t need to be a hardcore hiker, but we’d definitely bring proper footwear and a bit of extra traction.

There are winter hiking trails all over the Dolomites, including Alpe di Siusi, Val Gardena, Alta Badia and the Tre Cime area. Basically, all over the Dolomites where you’d hike in summer.

We did a winter hike around Lake Carezza with Emma, and it was rather funny. The trail was groomed and looked perfectly manageable, but it was much more slippery than we expected – we discovered what groomed + packed-down snow actually means. We ended up literally sliding down some of the hills on our butts – and getting back up was basically sliding uphill.

Paragliding

I’ve done paragliding in the Dolomites myself, albeit in June, but yes, you can also go tandem paragliding in winter!

We saw some paragliders take off from Mont de Seura and then land in Monte Pana on our ski trip in March, and seeing them made me think ohhhh, the views must be incredible up there when everything is covered in snow.

The second thought was – good that they have those sleeping-bag looking things, otherwise they’d be freezing.

If you want to try a tandem flight in winter, dress like you’re going hiking somewhere higher up. I needed warm layers even for my June flight because it gets cold at altitude, and winter is obviously going to be colder.

Most of the companies that do tandem paragliding in summer also offer winter flights. So check out where you’d like to go – is it Seceda? Alpe di Siusi? Kronplatz?

Best places to visit

If you’d just like to enjoy the winter views in the Dolomites without spending the day skiing or hiking, you absolutely can.

There are plenty of places where you can drive right up to the views, take a cable car or ski lift, or simply wander around one of the mountain towns.

Mountain passes

Would you like to see the best snowy mountain peaks without hiking? Go to a mountain pass!

When we did our short trip to the Dolomites at the end of November, we drove through several mountain passes and got some pretty spectacular views, with snow at the higher elevations and autumn still hanging around lower down.

Then, on a December trip with a friend, we deliberately drove up to Passo Sella, Passo Gardena, and Passo Pordoi just to see what they looked like in winter, take some pictures and enjoy the views.

My favourite mountain passes to go to are Passo Giau, Passo Gardena, Passo Pordoi… actually, all of them. I wouldn’t drive an hour or more out of my way just to tick one off the list, but if there’s one somewhere near you while you’re in the Dolomites, it’s kind of a must-visit for me.

Up the lifts for the views

Another easy way to get into the mountains is to take a cable car or lift up and spend some time walking around once you get there. You don’t have to go far to get some pretty ridiculous views.

Mont de Seura is probably my favorite. We went up there with my friend in December around sunset, walked around in the snow and just enjoyed the views. And then, on the way back down the chairlift toward Santa Cristina, we got to see the alpenglow on the mountains. That was pretty amazing.

Honestly, this applies pretty much everywhere in the Dolomites. If there’s a famous view you can get to in summer, there’s a good chance you can see it in winter too – although you might need to check whether the lift is running.

And if you’ve spent any time on Instagram looking at the Dolomites, you’ve probably already seen half of them without realizing it. They just look different when everything around them is covered in snow.

And many of the best views can be enjoyed with little to no hiking, for example, Cinque Torri, Seceda, or even Alpe di Siusi. Get off the lift, walk around a bit, find a good viewpoint, take approximately 67 photos, and go back down when you’ve had enough.

Enjoy the towns

The towns in the Dolomites are charming both in the summer and in the winter.

If you’re there in December, you can combine your mountain time with Christmas markets, decorations and a bit of festive wandering. When we went in December, we spent some time walking around the towns in Val Gardena and checking out the Christmas markets.

In March, we walked around Castelrotto, Siusi, and Compatsch, and because there wasn’t any snow down in the villages, we could just wander around and enjoy the landscape.

You’ll also find little shops selling souvenirs and cute local things, which makes wandering around even more fun.

If you’re travelling to the Dolomites in December, make sure not to miss the best-known Christmas markets in Italy which is in Bolzano!

Where to stay

Where you stay in the Dolomites in winter depends on what you actually want to do. So, pick your base based on where the things you want to do are.

If you’re coming mainly to ski, it makes sense to stay closer to the slopes that you want to go on. We love staying in ski-in ski-out hotels for that, but staying close to a ski bus stop or a lift is also great.

One thing to check before you finalize any plans: some Dolomites hotels have specific arrival days and minimum stays in winter, especially around weekends and peak ski season.

If you’d just like to enjoy some magnificent views and do a bit of sightseeing, consider staying in one of the villages in Val Gardena, or check out Cortina d’Ampezzo. Both are incredibly well located and offer a host of activities. Although there are plenty of other amazing options.

But in short – there’s no one “best” place to stay in winter – just like always, you need to make sure that the base supports what you want to do.

Practical winter Dolomites tips

Planning a winter trip to the Dolomites isn’t actually that different from planning a summer one. You still need to figure out where you’re going, where you’re staying and how you’re getting around.

There are just a few extra things to keep in mind in winter – mostly involving snow, roads and what happens when Mother Nature decides to throw a rather large wrench into your plans.

Getting to the Dolomites

In winter, getting to the Dolomites is not that much different from any other season – unless, of course, the roads get closed because of snow. But the snow plow drivers in the Dolomites are professional. I mean – the roads were quite good even during an incredible storm, so I wouldn’t worry about it too much.

Just like any other season, you’d be flying into Venice, Verona, Innsbruck or Munich, and renting a car or using public transport. Which airport works best for you depends on where you’re staying and where you’re flying from. But I’d pick your base before booking flights just to make sure it actually fits what you’d like to do.

One peculiar thing about winter is that many hotels have specific days for checking in – generally Saturdays. What this means is that on weekends, there’s a lot of traffic going in and out of northern Italy. When we visited in February, the journey from Munich to Carezza took like 2 hours longer than planned. There were traffic jams everywhere.

There were closed roads on our journey back home, too, but that was due to the incredible amount of snow that fell in 24 hours. And it was in Austria, not Italy – you just couldn’t cross the border.

Getting around

If you’re planning to spend most of your time skiing, you don’t necessarily need a car to get around. Most ski areas have ski buses or shuttles connecting the hotels with the lifts, and some hotels also run their own transportation.

We’ve used a ski bus ourselves, including from Saltria to Monte Pana, and it was easy enough. There’s a special storage for skis so you don’t need to worry about taking them onboard. If you’re planning to move around a lot, though, a car gives you much more freedom.

There is one thing to think about if you’re flying in and renting a car: your ski gear takes up a ridiculous amount of space. If you’re bringing skis, snowboards and a bunch of luggage for the whole family, make sure the car you rent actually has room for all of it. A bigger car can make the drive much more comfortable, but then you also have a bigger car to maneuver and park once you get into the mountains.

So, basically: skiing from one base? You can probably manage without a car. Want to explore? Rent one. Bringing half the sporting-goods aisle with you? Check the boot size before you book. 😄

Driving in winter

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Driving in the Dolomites in winter isn’t as scary as it sounds and is for sure not as hard as you’re worrying it might be. The roads are generally cleaned really well, even during heavy snowfall, but you do need to be prepared for the occasional road closure or a sudden change in conditions.

Snow chains are mandatory in winter, and yes, the police actually check for them – you can see it in the video above, actually. So make sure you have them in the car and know how to use them before you need them. You should also have the usual winter emergency stuff in the car – reflective vests, an emergency triangle, a first-aid kit, a snow brush or scraper and de-icer.

But then again, you might not even need a car for your trip, depending on what your plans are.

And one thing to know is that some of the roads, for example, the road to Rifugio Auronzo closes in the winter when there’s snow. If there’s snow on the mountain passes, those might close for a bit as well – for safety, while the snow is cleared away.

It gets cold so pack properly

Don’t underestimate how cold the Dolomites can get in winter. And remember that you’re often going to be moving between different altitudes. Even if the temperatures aren’t that low, the air might get humid which then basically freezes you to the bone.

It might feel relatively warm when the sun is out, but once the sun disappears, things can get cold very quickly. And if you’re spending the whole day outside, you’ll want to have those warmer layers with you even if you don’t need them first thing in the morning

For sightseeing or just little walking, it’s enough to have winter boots, but if you’re planning to do some more actual winter hiking, hiking boots are a better idea.

And if you’re planning to enjoy winter activities, make sure to bring waterproof stuff – nothing’s worse in winter than being wet, thus extra cold.

Then there’s the equipment for whatever you’re actually planning to do. Skiing? Bring or rent proper ski gear. Hiking? Hiking poles and microspikes can make a huge difference on packed or slippery snow. Snowshoeing and tobogganing obviously need their own gear, too.

Full or half-board is a good idea

I usually recommend booking a hotel with half-board or 3/4 board when you’re staying in the Dolomites. We’ve been surprised to see that many of the restaurants near our hotel actually weren’t open for lunch, even though the ski season was still going strong!

That’s how we learned – the hard way – that restaurants don’t always work the way you expect them to in winter. Places might be closed, have different open1. ing hours, or simply not be convenient when you’ve spent the whole day outside and just want to eat something warm.

It’s especially important if you’re staying somewhere more “remote”, such as Alpe di Siusi or Carezza.

And honestly, hotel food in the Dolomites is generally really good. The setup varies from hotel to hotel – sometimes you’ll choose from a menu, sometimes there’s a buffet, and sometimes you’ll get traditional local food or something a little more chef-y.

I’d rather have dinner waiting for me than finish a day in the mountains and then discover that my dinner options have disappeared.

If you do book a hotel without meals included, though, check the opening days and hours of the restaurants nearby before you commit. Winter isn’t the time to assume that everything will be open because Google says it is.

Take out a good travel insurance

Take out good travel insurance. I’ve actually had to use mine in the Dolomites – and it paid for an extra night, dinner and fuel when we couldn’t leave because the roads were closed.

I also had to cancel a trip after I broke a bone, and our insurance covered most of what we’d already paid.

So yes, I’m a little evangelical about travel insurance now. But check what your own policy actually covers, because policies aren’t all the same.

For a winter trip, I’d look at medical care, trip cancellation and interruption, weather-related delays, evacuation, rental car coverage, and whether the activities you’re planning to do are covered. Skiing and snowboarding can have their own conditions, so don’t assume they’re automatically included just because you have travel insurance.

And if you’re skiing in Italy, there’s another thing you need to know: third-party liability insurance is mandatory on the ski slopes. Your existing travel or family insurance might already include it, so check before buying separate coverage.

Is it worth it to visit the Dolomites in winter?

If you want snow, skiing, winter walks, mountain views and cozy evenings in the towns, I’d absolutely consider a winter trip to the Dolomites. Just go into it knowing that winter changes how you get around, what you can access and even where you’ll find dinner.

The big thing is to plan around what you actually want to do. If you’re skiing every day, your ideal base will look very different from someone who wants to ride a cable car up for the views, wander through Christmas markets and do a few winter hikes.

If you’d rather have someone help you put the whole trip together, you can also have me create a custom itinerary for your trip.

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